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I recently bought a boat and it has that outboard engine on it. I had it run onces for a few seconds then died out. The problem is it doesn't get spark at the plugs at all times I already put in a new coil and still it does the same thing. It acts like it want to fire up but not until you let go of the key. Also if its possible can you let me know the adjustment to the carbs. Thank you in advance

-drodriguez349

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Intermittent spark is tough to diagnose, but follow these steps:

1. Make sure all electrical connections are clean and tight. This means taking the connections apart and cleaning the contact surfaces with emery cloth.

2. Remove the flywheel. Check to make sure the flywheel magnets are tight in the flywheel. Clean the magnet surfaces and the stator frame with some medium scotchbrite. Clean the breaker points with some fine grit emery cloth and contact cleaner. Check and reset the breaker points- the gap should be .018".

3. you say that the outboard wants to fire when you release the key, but not when the key is in "start" position? To eliminate the possibility of a fault in the key switch or wiring harness, disconnect the wiring harness from the outboard and try starting the outboard by jumping the solenoid.

4. If all of the above fails to produce consistent spark, you will need to perform a complete ignition diagnosis- you will need an ohmmeter, and can find the procedure at this site:

http://www.cdielectronics.com/support/

Carburetors- These are simple carbs, with a fixed high speed jet and an adjustable low speed jet. They probably should be removed, disassembled, and completely cleaned with carb cleaner and compressed air. Do the carbs one at a time, to avoid mixing parts. To set the low speed jets, the initial setting is 1 3/4 turns out on each jet. Then turn each jet in (clockwise) 1/8 turn at a time, until the engine begins to falter. Then turn each jet out 1/4 turn. Ideally, you would use a carburetor vacuum synchronizer to fine tune the carbs, but if you don't happen to have one, the above method will do the job.

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turenorth hit it on the head. Just make sure that if it's an electric shift, as I think that one may be, use type C lubricant or ATF, not standard gear oil. I know from years of experience that automatic transmission fluid is a good alternative to Type C, and a third the cost. OMC used to dye it blue and call it type C lube. After you've had a chance to use the boat a time or two, change it again and make sure you don't have milky oil. This would indicate that more water has come in, and you may have a bad seal on either the prop shaft or the drive shaft. Also, be very careful to watch the temperature and/or cooling indicator stream. If need be, drop the gearcase and replace the water pump impeller. It's $30 an an hour or two to do it, depending on how handy you are, but a bad pump will destroy your engine.

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You need to get a seloc Manuel but it sounds the timmer that is under the fly wheel..

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In my opinion it already was discussed
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